Rory here- Montalcino. Great driving from Montepulciano, through Pienza, into San Quirico for coffee fill-up, onto Montalcino. Or maybe that's Mont al Pacino. We left town with a series of wrong turns which spilled us into the narrow winding uphill Corso that we climb every day. We're not supposed to be driving here, so it's extra fun, and the pleasure is maximized when we drive slowly past a half dozen Polizia gathered around their dark blue van. Watch them shrink in the rear-view mirror as we proceed, just in case they follow us looking for trouble. They apparently have far more pressing matters. Out onto the country roads, we join the race of funny little cars. One of our favorites is the oddly named Multipla. Looking somehow like a cartoon character out of Merry Melodies -- the ones with bulging lower eyelids, remember? Given to pumping out tears -- this little car has a protruding forehead and, for no reason at all, bulging, swollen lower lids where the front hood meets the windscreen. The wiper fluid probably shoots straight out in giant perfect teardrops. Driving the country roads is just like spending an afternoon at the go-kart tracks, but with more twists, lots of switchbacks and plenty of up and down. Not for the carsick.
Kathy here- we continued on to Montalcino, another beautiful hilltop Tuscan town, and home to the famous Brunello wine. We made a reservation at Osteria di Porta al Cassero for lunch on Michael's recommendation, and then went to explore the town for a bit. I found an enoteca with a very friendly woman who let me try a few local wines, including the famed Brunello which is pretty wildly expensive back home(and not too cheap in Italy either!) I ended up buying two to bring back home, and will let them age more before we drink them. Rory and Iris ended up in a lovely park just outside the walls of the town, relaxing in the shade. I met them and we walked across the street to this La Porta (literally "Gate") and were seated in a covered stone terrace, the middle of the three sections of the restaurant. We had simple, lovely food. We have gotten into the habit of sharing a few dishes so as not to get too stuffed. In this case we had bruschetta, pici with tomato sauce(that lovely hand rolled pasta), stewed rabbit and wild boar. The meal was enhanced (as always) by the arrival of a trio of locals in their late seventies and early eighties, who obviously love this place and eat here regularly. A man and his two female companions. It was fun to watch them order; see what they ordered and then exchange friendly sign language as to how hot the day was, how good the food was, and how beautiful our daughter is.
We left Montalcino and headed south on the zoomy roads to get to the Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Arriving a little early, we had a cappuccino at a little country restaurant that overlooks the valley where the beautiful Abbey is. It was a hot,hot day. The rolling agricultural fields around us were beautiful, the roads dusty and the air dry and fairly unmoving. After coffee, we parked the Fiat Punto a little ways down the driveway and walked up to the Abbey. Hardly anyone else was around. A beautiful church (of course) and the monks quarters nearby with rows and rows of gorgeous lavender in full bloom. So pretty. We entered the cool and quiet church and took a look around before sitting down near the front. Soon after, the monks began setting up for prayers and a few minutes later, there were six of them in robes, chanting in Latin for about 30 minutes, the music reverberating in waves throughout the space. An incredible sound in that church, in that valley, in Tuscany in Italy! What an experience!
Back to the car and the zoomy roads....tried some of the smaller and even more winding roads with views of lines of cypress trees, more hillsides of muted golds and greens and gorgeous large and small villas. Eventually returning to the lovely and welcoming Bracci garden gates of our apartment. A perfect Tuscan day! Topped off by another World Cup game featuring Ghana in the outdoor bank portico. With gelato of course. Fun.
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